Jan

12

Mark Foo was a real poseur and publicity hound. Bradshaw is much better and he started very late to the game at 21 or so. I saw Foo surf in California and was not impressed. Kelly Slater was much better. In fact, I know local kids here who are better than Foo. But then again I believe that the best surfers are the ones who surf the biggest waves. Many big wave surfers catch the wave, make the drop, do a bottom turn, cut a line, and ride before kicking out…… and that's all they do. It's harder to excel on small, crappy waves which is the reason that Florida produces the best surfers on the planet and we have a higher proportion of top pros than anywhere else sans Hawaii. It's much easier for a small wave surfer to adjust to big waves than vice versa…..not to say that big waves can't and won't kick your butt. Back in 1984, I almost died in Tavarua, Fiji from the effects from getting bounced off a shallow reef in conditions that were much too big for me. For me, I prefer waves in the 6-10' range, long period swell, clean, and hollow. I have nothing to prove by catching big waves, as all I want to do is have fun. The best surfer is the one who has the most fun.


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