Jan

14

You may read a guidebook, or just as well judge a people in a new land by their dogs. In rainforest Iquitos, five years ago, all the dogs were friendly, and so were all of the 700,000 citizens I encountered during multiple visits from 1999 through five years ago, 2010. As the new decade swung in computers arrived, and provided a model for thought that was non-existent 'PC'. Affluence followed the ability to think starting about four years ago, in 2011, and now the dogs, people and their wallets are fat.

I was never once barked at nor accosted in the pre-computer era, but tomorrow I return to the US as if from a war. My legs are riddled with dog bites from virtually daily attacks for seven months, and the human assaults have been bi-weekly. Why not go to the police, you ask? Before 2010, there were effectively no police in Iquitos except for a handful of pretty señoritas in white uniforms who stood like marble statues in the plazas. Now there are thousands of police on motorcycles, in the first cars to arrive in the city, and walking the beats. The police step in when someone asks, and the case is decided on the street according to which arguer bribes the highest. Law enforcement is an auction, and because I am wealthier than most it has saved many hard times and my passport once. However, a dozen other times the police have stood chuckling while snapping dogs ringed me, without stepping in because the sport is greater pleasure.

The children offer to kill them, and the going rate is $2 for a small dog or $4 for a large one. I have only put a bounty on two dogs: a rotten Rottweiler and a nasty large golden lab that attack me daily. The canines' method is to ring and wait for an opening, or to lay in wait and bite from behind. If one stands up to one or a band of two or four legged attackers, they wilt. However, this has left my one set of clothes (on a rainforest island of small, strong people like the dwarves in the Hobbit and nothing fits my American frame) in tatters after multiple repairs, and the socks have lost their toes, and the shoes are a laugh.

The faculty to think and an ability to buy nice things came too fast for the Peruvians. Nearly overnight, they became as cartoonish as a Bugs Bunny film, as indulgent as Golding's Lord of the Flies, and their seemingly rabid bands of dogs are the leading indicator.

However, there are still dogs that follow me like the Pied Piper for kibble I let drop from a hole in my knapsack, two señoritas have named their newborns after me, and I didn't even sleep with them, and kids dangle 5' rattlesnakes from 12' cane poles they have used to kill the serpents to keep my path safe.


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  1. GARY KATZ on January 15, 2015 12:10 am

    Steve,
    This is a blast from the past. I was speaking with a friend in Grand Rapids, MI today and he said he was off to play racquetball. I told him how much I had been into the game in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s and was intramural champ at my college, CHICO STATE. I then recounted a favorite story of mine about a national champion who I played a couple of games with by the name of Steve Keeley. My good friend and neighbor, Sue Jackson (Action Jackson), said her boyfriend was coming to see her and maybe he would play a game or two with me. She did say you were “really” good, but hey, so was I. Well, I had the key to the courts on campus and we headed down there about 11pm one night. You waxed me 21to 3. You then said let’s play one more game and I’ll play you right handed. Sue was laughing her ass off but I didn’t have a clue. I told you no, that I didn’t want an advantage and then you informed me that it’s OK, “I’m right handed”. To this day one of the most humbling experiences I’ve had. I was pummeled 21-1 or 2 I believe. Anyways, I took a picture of the cover of the book you wrote and one of the inscription you wrote inside and sent them to my friend today so he wouldn’t think I was talking smack. You wrote, “would you believe I wrote this book left handed? Steve A. Keeley”. Still cracks me up.
    I hope this makes it to you as I scanned some sights trying to find a contact for you. You’ve been busy these last many years!!
    Great memories that seem like yesterday.
    All the best,
    Gary Katz
    -On a side note, I do still hold the softball throw record for intramural sports at Chico with a toss of 326ft. I should have challenged you to that at the time……

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