Nov

6

Surf Adventure, from Jim Sogi

November 6, 2007 |

SurfThis weekend we ventured up north into the wilderness for surf and fish. We have been watching the weather, waves, and wind for over two months waiting for the right conditions when the winds are not blasting at 35 knots and when there are no huge northwest swells to close out the entire coast.

I've been surfing and fishing with my best friend for twenty-five years. We hunt big waves and big game fish. He put together the ultimate hardcore surf adventure boat, a Radon with a turbo diesel, Hawaiian cab, with shade, surfboard rack on the back, loaded with an all-out fishing arsenal. It can handle conditions that many other vessels cannot handle, and much better than the 62 foot Hatteras we took up there last year. The Alinuihaha Channel is where world explorer and navigator Captain James Cook came to grief, getting dismasted in the rough conditions. Up north there are no roads, no cell phone coverage, no other boats. There the huge rollers and winds squeeze between the islands, creating a ruckus.

As predicted, the wind was glassy and light, and there was a moderate swell running at about eight feet. We fished on the way to our secret surf spot, and there was plenty of action with birds feeding and pointing out the where the bait was, and where the bigger predators fed. We arrived just before high tide which is the prime time for fishing as the bait and fish rise to the surface to feed as the tide comes up. We went to where the birds gathered on the water where they are feeding on smaller bait and got a number of strikes. After losing one fish that was jumping out of the water in a long fight we hooked up a big one that fought for 40 minutes. Finally just before landing it we saw something even bigger following it, and then it just skimmed in. A big shark had bitten off the last four feet of the fish, leaving only about two feet behind the head. The ono must have been over 50 pounds. It goes to show that we are not at the top of the food chain out there. We were glad to pay the taxes to the tax man in the grey suit because soon we were going to go in the water to surf, and its better that they are fed first and not hungry.

At the surf spot, initially the waves looked small, but were slowly rising from a different direction so it is often deceiving. The rides kept going and going traveling for hundreds of yards along a cliff into the beach. There was the fragrance of flowers from plants growing on the 1000 foot cliff that rose straight out of the water. The waterfall sprayed the inside part of the break near the beach. The mountains and cliffs faded away into the mists and clouds like a lost continent in a fantasy land.

After surfing for hours, we headed back at high speed, surfing down the face of the large swells in the boat. Just as it was getting dark, we dropped off the boys and they jumped overboard into the rough water and paddled in on their boards through the rocks to the end of the road to catch a ride home. They are tough kids. We decided to stay out overnight since we had only landed half a fish. We stayed in a nearby bay and had the fish we caught for dinner on board.

We arrived back out near Kamehameha's Heiau (temple) before dawn. Soon we were skimming the increasing northerly swells right along side the birds searching for fish. After a couple hours we hooked up and landed a 50+ pound mahi-mahi. It is a truly beautiful fish that flashes many iridescent colors as it is fighting in the water and jumps up in the air. It's a delicious fish especially when cooked in the mayonnaise/panko recipe previously posted. We headed back after a great weekend trip. No life and death this time, except for the fish.
All around perfect timing for the wind, the swell and fish. As with markets, it's good to have the patience, the data on the conditions at various locations, and the knowledge and equipment to wait for the right time to enter. The ability to handle the conditions allow the rewards for the few that can handle those conditions. There are so many elements in nature out there that are out of your control and a large element of randomness in fishing and surfing. It is important to find the most favorable conditions to engage.

Today a very unusual south swell from an out-of-season southern cyclone is kicking up 10 foot plus waves here. Normally by November the swells come from the northern storms in Russia and Alaska. Things seem out of kilter in nature and the markets. We seem to have entered a new regime here after the last few years of low vol. Today's vol was startling with a 16. Just like the good old days.


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