MILK AND
(Part 4)
The
executive hobos railed across the
The
short history of the causeway is intriguing.
The 1869 first transcontinental railroad traveled north around the
thirty-mile wide brine lake. At the turn
of the century, embankments from the west and east shores of the lake connected
at the center with a 12-mile wooden trestle.
Later, in the 1950’s, the unsafe timbers were
replaced by the present rock and gravel causeway. We execs watch seabirds
roost, preen and flick off the timber tops and early telegraph poles ¼-mile
north of the present railbed.
The
train trudges off the eastern causeway and soon into
The
local work train threads little burgs south next to I-15 for one hour and on
into
The
freight then slides past the giant Union Pacific red-and-blue badge above the
old UP yard. Millions of hobos rolling
through history similarly gaped at the towering marker but none were executives
with gold-crowns. The freight creeps
through the downtown UP yard to the smaller Roper Yard in south city, and ceases.
We
jump to the dirt behind two tramps pressed against a building wall peeing. Their indifference to our intrusion suggests
a long road to disaffiliation.
Furthermore, they see us as peers.
I wave and they nod over their shoulders and turn again to face the flat
wall.
The
brash urinaters zip and wheel to us. They wear
blue-jeans and sweatshirts, baseball caps and rail grime everywhere. I open, ‘Must have been a long night…
beer?’ They grin pleasantly. Their packs
are hidden at a nearby stream bank where they drank last night, but soon
they’ll catch a westbound to the coast.
‘Why do you ride?’ I ask. ‘Hell,’
one replies. ‘I don’t have anything else
to do.’ The other sniffs, ‘Should we
work when we don’t need to?’ That
statement hammers the divider between tramp and society: These riders and
thousands like them take occasional jobs, recycle bottles and donate blood as
businesses when they want flash money, and then hardly see the next day. In contrast, regular society delays
gratification and squirrels their nuts.
We
separate from the pair and I advise my comrades as we walk, ‘It’s curious that
we passed as tramps. Moreover, that they place themselves at a rung above the
rest of society.’ ‘Food for thought, all
right, but how about breakfast?’ urges Pronto.
“I gotta pee but I think it can wait until the
Golden Arch,” cracks Apple. We spot an
Interstate viaduct a half-mile to the south and strike out for McDonald’s on
its near side.
The
first thing a smart rider does on alighting on a new town turf is to wash
up. This usually occurs at a stream,
filling station bathroom or fast-food joint.
Very dirty tramps pay four-bits at a self-car wash. A hobo’s wears a grime coat of grease, earth
and sweat that fills the pores and grows out only after two weeks. However, the outer layer lifts immediately
with a good scrub of hot water and soap.
We order a dozen Egg McMuffins- on sale for a
buck each- and coffee, and take a corner table.
The executives take turns washing the monkey out of the bathroom mirror
until breakfast arrives. The food
disappears fast, and we lean back to discuss the dichotomy of citizens and
tramps: Them and Us.
‘Did
you see the way people stared at us on the sidewalks? It was a strange look of
awe and distrust,’ declares Apple. ‘The
water jugs gave us away along with freight odors. And I think everyone has a
romantic notion of hobos,’ inspires Pronto. ‘Though passersby looked oddly at
us,’ continues Apple, ‘When I observed you guys I found myself gawking the same
way. I’m confused.’ I jump in, ‘You guys
are floating between Them and Us!’
After
a pause, I resume. ‘The prejudice ranges from mild In Mormon towns to getting
chased by rednecks in
‘How
prevalent and how deeply do the dual societies run?’ asks Apple. ‘Everywhere freights run through towns.’ I retort.
‘It’s tough to be girdled by good citizens who believe that a fitting member
has a job, bank account, home, significant other, and takes vacations. Those
are their requirements for an identity. Without them, you become Us.’
Apple
confesses, ‘I find myself during this journey identifying more with the hobo
ways but condescending as an executive.
It’s not an identity crisis, but approaches it.’ I respond, ‘That rub stops when you remain on
one or the other side of the tracks for a few days to rearrange your reactions
to a single environment. We just
immersed abruptly into the rail world and out this morning in
‘Art
Linkletter was another tramp turned millionaire,’ I
inform. He writes fondly in his memoirs Hobo
on the Way to Heaven of riding the rails penniless during the depression.
However, he held two aces: A YMCA card and a skill to type 100-words per minute
without error. The first ace let him check into a facility after getting off a freight in any city. The next day, showered and shaved, he
played the second ace where typists were needed in the work force. He spent two
years hoboing the country in
this fashion.’
‘That’s
what all tramps need,’ insists Apple: ‘A place to clean up, a job and a million
dollars.’
‘For
now,’ charges Pronto, ‘Let’s find a motel near the tracks. Then we’ll go to
town.’ We push back from the table, rise
and Apple introspects out the door, ‘We bounce like dry leaves, and them don’t
care where we land except us do.’
.
The
following thing the hobo does on stepping down in a new town, after washing up,
eating and gauging the citizenry, is to stash his pack. It can be stuck in the
jungle weeds, or in a Greyhound or Amtrak station locker. The execs have ridden an extreme one-thousand
rail miles from the Pacific without respite, so we select a classier option,
the thin Siesta Motel on 3200 St. South next to a strip mall just a few blocks
from the tracks. The hot shower is a
luxury, but Apple refuses to shave his fledgling beard. Next the clothes are laundered at the motel
machine, lifting the lid once for a longer soak cycle. The day sparkles
outside, and after cleanup we can blend with the public.
The
Salt Lake Light Rail trolley conveys us for $1.50, our first paid ride, to
downtown where we saunter
The
Salvation Army is the new-tramp-in-town’s best friend with thousands of
outposts scattered about the
This
good company closes in on the mission door for the strict reason of hunger.
Once entered, seated at the large tables in the dining area, and the main
course served- a thick potato soup- talk is sparse. The Salvation Army is a boon to the homeless
man intent on starting from the streets up and into a productive life. Here daily he can eat, shower, get clothes
vouchers for the Willie (Goodwill), and find temp work. He also may be referred to a large nearby
shelter for a maximum free three-month stay as the new, productive life
gels.
We
egress the Sally to investigate the nearby UP railroad yard. An old codger at
the end of a busy rake in a freshly mowed yard catches our eyes on the way to
the yard. ‘Why do you do this?’ I ask in
earnest. ‘It’s just going to grow back.’
He eyes us up-and-down before replying, ‘I’m Mormon, and you know what
that means?’ We’re unsure. ‘Hard work over time creates discipline, and
the community looks well at that, as well as the yard. Now you’ve looked and heard, so I’ll get back
to work.’
Further
on, we get waylaid by a quaint event: The rodeo is in
Former
rodeo clown Pronto assumes a bowlegged swagger down the middle of the sidewalk
and slants toward a youngster in a huge cowboy hat twirling a bigger
lariat. Time and again, the loop drops
like a frown to the street. ‘Can you
teach me that?’ Pronto asks the boy. ‘I
reckon if you got the time and the talent, cuz ropin’ ain’t easy.’ ‘I got the time anyway,’ laughs Pronto. In the next minute the tyke runs through the steps
of forming the loop, twirling it larger and larger until ultimately… it droops
from gross weight. Now the adult grabs
the course rope to try but seems all thumbs, and soon hands it back for more
demonstrations. The kid finally shrugs
in exasperation, ‘Sorry, mister, but I guess you ain’t got what it takes
tonight.’ Pronto smiles, takes the rope
in his calloused hand and twirls an awesome loop that he jumps gracefully
through. He hands the coil back to the
wide-mouthed boy with, ‘You sure are a good teacher!’
We
leave the main stem of click-heeled cowboys slaloming thousands of horse
droppings for the Light Rail, and return to the Siesta Motel. Pronto phones his newly wed he actually
lassoed on a
At
7am, bagpipe music erupts in my ear, and I slide my head beneath a pillow. Pronto drums with pencils the pillowcase until
I throw it off. ‘I practice drumming
each morning accompanied by my mini-recorder,’ he says switching off the
recorder. ‘You’re just in time; I finished practice.’
As
the sun peeks over the Wasatch Range, we rise with coffee, bagels and the
morning edition of the
Pronto
schemes to parade the yard to seek a worker for train info. Today’s bandana,
He
stands tall to the bridge rafters. ‘Watch my pack. I’ll explore the yard for
workers and if I’m not back in an hour turn on the radios.’ We’re confident he’ll get the info- train
number, time, destination and track- because any bloke with coveralls and a
neckerchief inside a rail yard will be mistaken not as an FTRA but as a RR
employee.
In
thirty minutes, he struts back like a prizefighter and exclaims, ‘I talked to
some guys in a work truck who said the track west of
Apple
wonders aloud, ‘What took you so long?’
Our exec spy continues, ‘The boss yelled when I started to walk away
from the work truck, ‘Hey, where’s your hardhat?’ I answered, ‘I didn’t know
hobos had to wear hardhats.’ He glared
at me for a long, hard moment and then chuckled, ‘Damn if you don’t look like a
worker!’’
The
bridge subsurface is idyllic: Dirt embankments, stream, and hobo pastimes. We compete skipping
stones across the stream and Pronto wins with five consecutive. Apple flips a thirty second around-the-world yoyo
trick. After an hour, our hobo
experience depreciates to every instance I’ve ever known between rides on the
rail: Boredom. We steel furtive looks up
through the trestle slats at cotton cumulous parading the blue sky. Finally I gust, ‘Let’s go look for the
jungle.’
To
find a hobo jungle, follow a path beaten through the tallest grass near a major
yard and listen for the trickle of a brook and voices. The latter was more common when Depression
era ‘bo’s covered the cars and jumped down to fill
these camps. Nowadays, one may discover
a couple tramps in each camp and, if not, always their old cardboard, bottles,
food wrappers, and perhaps a lawn chair frame, cutlery and a cutting board.
Often you see weathered plywood over holes scooped in the dirt as shelters, and
always campfire rings. Jungles are safe resting places until the catchout, plus now and then an aging tramp-in-resident
keeps the spot orderly and gives transients directions and stories.
We
heft the packs and follow the tall grass trails- cobweb crossed to indicate no
passers-through- from the bridge to just the jungle I’ve described. It’s vacant, but we sit and soak the ambience
for a few minutes. In recent memory,
twenty years ago, the big summertime jungle a few miles north of here at the
red-and-blue Union Pacific sign was a large hobo haunt that has since been
paved and over-passed. Spectacular in
the past, across the country, there is still a little jungle at every division
point.
Even
so, today we prefer the cozy trestle and return under it at the main to wait
out the sun and the repair of the ‘bad order’ track. Down here, unseen, we are able to hear
oncoming freights and climb out to hobnob with crews before boarding. Others have waited under here as well. There
is ‘boxcar art’ and monikers scraped or painted all around on the timbers. Pronto carves his initials and the date, and
Apple, looking like one and ever the creative contrarian, uses a piece of coal
to scratch a Happy Hooligan on a bridge support. I look at my bicep and draw the tattoo I see-
a Road Mouse with a smile and a teardrop- signifying the sweat-sour experience
of riding the rails.
We
pass around books from my backpack library.
Apple notices me reading upside-down and requests, ‘Teach me how to do
that.’ ‘You already know how,’ I reply.
‘Try it.’ He succeeds at once. I suggest
the advantages of reading print right-to-left: Enhanced tracking of objects
such as a tennis ball, boxing glove or a freight car moving from right to left,
less neck strain, and greater reading stamina. ‘You read one chapter one direction, and the next the other,’ I explain. Apple practices reading upside-down Ayn Rand’s Fountainhead
until distracted by flies landing right-to-left on the bridge
cross-pieces. He springs and swats at
least a dozen flat dead with the Morning
Tribune. ‘Now the newspaper is black
and white and red all over,’ I tease.
Apple
this morn is a bit buggy himself. Under
the bridge he switches between reading, harmonica repetitions, yoyo slaps at
water-walkers, and in due course sighs, ‘I’m sorry,
guys, but I can’t take it any more.’ We
watch stunned as he reaches into his pocket for a cigarette pack and lighter.
‘The roots of tobacco plants go to hell,’ I instantly quote
Yet,
after a pause, Apple flicks the lighter. ‘Throw it in the stream,’ I
shout. He draws deeply three times,
crushes it, and stuffs the long butt into his pocket. ‘That was lovely, but I’m
cutting back.’
The
temperature soon climbs under the trestle to 95-degrees as registered on the
thermometer leashed to Pronto’s pack. Flies materialize out of thin air. We sip the last of the motel ice water and
listen to our stomach cacophonies.
Tramps
in camp frequently pool coins in a strange way to produce a meal. Someone drops a hat or a circle is drawn in
the dirt, and everyone throws in the change he can afford. Two people are usually charged to watch each
other and take the sum for the makin’s, and the rest
guard the camp. After the return to the
jungle, customarily everything’s thrown into one pot and cooked, then shared
equally by each contributor. The hobo
meal is called Mulligan stew.
The
flush execs each toss a Hamilton into my hat, and then debate who should go to
town. Everyone wants out from under the
damn bridge. Apple stands feebly to
argue on two heels blistered raw from new boots, but we sit him back down to
take the shoes off. We see his heels
could peel before he reaches a sidewalk.
Pronto, the ex-EMT, unzips a First-Aid kit and cleans them with brook water,
dabs antiseptic, and leaves them bare to dry. ‘You’re not walking anywhere,’
orders the hobo ‘croaker,’ and his patient nods dejectedly.
So,
Pronto and I walk the tracks a mile toward a 7-11 store kicking coal dribbled
from cars along the ballast. I tell him
that people in poorer times collected the lumps and sometimes raided stationary
coal cars for fuel. We enter the store and buy the makings for
cheese-and-cucumber sandwiches, plus six-packs of cold juices and sodas. We exit, check the radio at mid-return and
tell Apple lunch is being delivered.
Two
loaves of wheat bread and all the fixings disappear into open mouths, and the
remaining drinks are dragged in the river upstream from Apple’s feet. He, still
hungry, determines to open a can of Pork-n-Beans with a sharp rock. ‘This is an
added thrill to the meal,’ he says, but after five minutes hitting the can
without success accepts a PT-38 can-opener from Pronto. They share the beans
and tap their feet on the stream to Persian music on Apple’s Walkman. I
meditate.
Soon
asleep, the timbers rattle and a whistle blows high. I jump, but it’s the
imitator Pronto pounding the rafters while teething a perfect train
whistle. I pay back with a salvo of
contingency plans, my practice from years of chess playing and outdoor
survival. What if… shoots tingles
up-and-down my spine, but not theirs: What if the bull drives up? What if we
get separated?’ The shelling irks them but I know that at one zero hour the
execs will cover my ass in an emergency.
Today, everyone wants to get out, but ‘What if…’
The
earth shakes and dirt clods rain on us through the bridge cracks. A passing
freight overhead brakes and parks on the main.
Apples jets into his boots as Pronto leaps out the bridge and shouts
back down, ‘It’s a coal train!’ He walks
a quarter-mile to the head to talk to the crew, and returns to inform. ‘The
engineer says it’s a mile-long unit coal train- all coal hoppers. He begs us
not to ride since it’s dangerous as the bottom trapdoors can pop open on the
roll. He doesn’t know when the next eastbound is due.’ I curse the news, ‘Anthracite is a dirty ride
anyway.’ We retreat under the bridge
like annoyed trolls.
We
fill our hats like paddlewheels with stream water and wear them for hours. The
grunt of yard hogs overhead pushing strings settles into the hot culvert. Flies
buzz about us like vultures. Freight hopping is long waits interrupted by
flurries of activity, all part of hobo life in
In
an hour, another train chugs overhead. Cinders drop and we pop our heads out to
behold a mile-long unit train hauling an unknown substance. Gondola after gondola, I’ve never seen the
likes of those beans. I mount a ladder
for an appraisal and realize in a tick this train shall be a tough sell to the
execs. ‘Well, I’ve never seen anything like it,’ I holler down. ‘It’s a carload
of heavy gray peas. I’ll jump on…’ I
bounce a bit on landing. ‘It’s elastic!’ I yell fantastically over the side.
They
mount ladders hesitating on the top rungs. Then, as at a pool, they gulp
breaths and leap at once. Both land on the bowl of beans and bounce giggling
like schoolchildren. ‘I don’t know what
these are, but if they hatch we’re in trouble,’ warns Pronto. ‘Possibly they’re
pellets for some type of mold.’ offers Apple.
‘Look,’ I stop jumping to say gravely. ‘Normally I’d pass up this ride
because it has V-bottom hatches like the coal train that can jar open and empty
the contents onto the track. But that’s
unlikely and, besides, this gondola is piled almost to the top, so we can rope
our bodies to the ladders.’
‘I’m
in. We’ve been waiting a long time for this,’ affirms Pronto. ‘Count me in,’
weds Apple. We grab our gear, monkey up
the ladders and settle on cushy top.
Pronto shows us a fireman’s bowline to rope our waists to the rear
ladders. Far ahead, the engines growl
for a new crew. They arrive, the horn
blows, the couples beat from there to our car to the tail, and, laboriously,
the long heavy freight pulls away.
The
train rattles south out
Five
units blow smoke as sol sinks to our right.
City lights fade behind, farmland envelopes the train and flashlights
routinely are brought out. Then a
half-moon arcs from the east as we sit rocking on incalculable thousands of
tons of mystery pebbles at a new running speed of 50 mph.
‘Actually,’
challenges the lightning calculator Apple, ‘It is possible to roughly estimate
the number of pebbles in this whole train.’
We challenge him, ‘Have at it.’
He rests chin on a hand, eyes shut, and in
seconds asks without opening, ‘Can I use a slide rule?’ I offer him instead a pencil. He scribbles
rapidly on his cardboard seat with a penlight in his teeth mumbling, ‘Half-inch
diameter pebble; need a cigee, a 15’ x 8’ x 50’ car;
each is 90% full; need a cigee, a one-mile train
ignoring couples..’ He finally totals a
line, and concludes, ‘About 300,000,000 pebbles.’ ‘Correct!’ shouts Pronto. ‘The prize is a
look over the side to see the city emptying.’
The
track shears the Valley in half paralleling a busy Interstate. Excitedly, Apple
rummages
his
pack and pulls a one-foot wand. Presto,
it flashes neon-green! He twirls the
baton over the gondola side describing fantastic equations that pop into his
head. ‘Who knows what a smart fellow thinks?’ Pronto asks near me. Interstate
drivers must also see the green stick dance in the black for a mile
distant. The wand cuts the night for
twenty minutes before fading, and he ends with a green signature: APPLE. Then the exhausted author sits and pants,
‘It’s a chemical stick. A capsule of hydrogen peroxide broke when I bent the
rod. It mixed with other chemicals that fluoresce.’
Pronto
elbows him and bursts, ‘Fantastic graffiti! Thousands from this hour forth
shall call you the Green Ghost.’ Out of
hardship and the sweetness and antics of vagabonds arise legends. Tomorrow
morning, thousands of tonight’s drivers will slam-dunk their alarms and climb
from warm beds to hot breakfasts speaking and phoning others of what they
witnessed the prior night. But what
became of the execs on that fast freight?
Night
falls with cold air rushing over the gondola lead lip. We unroll the sleeping bags onto the best bed
money can’t buy, and fall asleep under the
It
jerks backward with portent. It stops
again. ‘Peek over either side,’ I croak, gathering the ropes. ‘A switchman is throwing a switch on this
side about ten cars back, but it’s too dark to figure why,’ Apple reports. ‘Nothing happening on this side,’ replies
Pronto. The horn sounds three short blasts meaning back up, odd on a
mainline. Nevertheless, the freight
jolts backward, gaining speed.
‘We’re
entering some kind of fenced yard,’ yells Apple. Ancients warn that a smooth path leads to
peril. The train backs into a lighted,
fenced area. It’s a dead-end siding that
leaves the mainline and doesn't come back to meet it at the other end.
‘Boots on!
Stow your bags!’ I holler.
‘What’s happening?’ questions Apple. ‘Get out!’ I order. A pre-arranged chain
of command snaps to. The freight continues to reverse too fast for novices to
debark, and it carries us through a hurricane fence entry into a large yard
that is not freight but a colossal industrial plant.
The
pebble car passes beneath a walkway with two mounted infrared cameras pointed
at our heads. Warm objects are
transmitting images to some headquarters.
‘Everybody take a separate corner.’ I order. ‘Now swing your gaze 360-degrees for clues:
Where we are, where are we rolling to, and how to
escape the fence.’
‘A
highway with cars at about four miles toward the north star,’ yells Apple. ‘A foundry sign ahead,’ groans Pronto.’
Taconite!‘ he suddenly recalls. ‘The pebbles are
Taconite for burning molds!’
‘Smokestacks!...’ I yell. ‘Dead ahead throwing
twenty-story flames!’
The
track in two minutes will empty us into the huge foundry door. A vision of the floor hatches opening and the
pellets and execs dropping… ‘Onto the ladders!’ I
order.
We
crouch on three separate corner ladders of the 8mph gondola. Senses heighten, the wheels spin and the
flames roar closer. ‘Abandon ship!’ I
scream at the portal.